Hi I am a new tortoise owner, we keep our 2 year old horsfield in an indoor cage and take him out whenever the weather permits, he eats fresh weeds and flowers recomended on the tortoise table site, we bathe him daily and give him nutrobal and calcium powder the temperature under his basking lamp is 30 degrees and 20 degrees in cool spots, but we have noticed that his underside is becoming swolen, he looks like he cant put his feet down properly only noticed today as he was walking round on the slabs, never noticed before as he is on soil.  We brought him in May this year from a pet shop where he lived in a viv and was fed pellets but he was flatter than this when we got him.  i have spoken to our vets who said they are not very knowledgable on tortoises but we can take him in Monday.  This is not good is it? Any help would be very much apprechiated.

Kerry

Hello Kerry,

Is it his legs that are swelling or the underside of his shell?

You really need a vet with a knowledge of tortoises. Heres the TPG's list of recommended vets, if theres not one local to you, let us know via this thread.

http://www.tortoise-protection-group.org.uk/site/files/VetlistApril20009.pdf

We live in Rugby Warwickshire. I will post a photograph to show you what I mean.  His shell is still hard, not spongy but it just does n't look right I am going to bath him now so will take a photo of him on the table.

Thank you Kerry

 I have found a specialist vet now he has an appointment monday morning.  He is still happy, eating and active just dont know why the bottom of his shell is so round??

Hi Kerry,

From the photos the problem appears to be with the rear portion of the body. Horsfields should look quite boxy shaped from the side , your guy has a bit of a collapsed look to his rear half. This is usually caused by a lack of UVB light exposure and calcium defiency during to critical, early growth. Both these can be rectified and it sounds like you are doing the right things. He may always look a little mis shapen Im afraid but keep up the suppliments and the outdoor tim

Im not a vet though :) so its good you've found a specialist and please let us know how you get on on Monday.

Thank you for putting my mind a little at ease, I just hope it is nothing I have done and it can be made better. Do you think it would be worth investing in a combined uv heat lamp as at the moment he has a strip and seperate heat lamp. I will keep you informed as to what the vet says.
Kerry

Hi there Kerry, I would not be stressing too much over over this. It is good that you have noticed this early, and are seeking help. What's done is done. You can only affect torty's future now. I would be trying to ensure the maximum time outside for now, and next season. Nothing beats natural UV light from the sun, plus rain showers, and the unpredictable rhythm of our summer. I sometimes worry over those torts experiencing: static temperature, day length, enclosure features, and diet...not much like nature I reckon. I suspect that even in the best natural habitat that 100% suitable feeding days do not occur in many regions of the world. Reptiles are designed to rely on and react to environmental variation. You could happily spend the winter months planning for next spring. It's great that you have access to an outside area. I would be aiming for a secure "run" in the sunniest part of your plot, with a cloched area adjoining sleeping box (think how warm your car gets when parked on only moderately sunny days...cloches are the same). In my experience once torts are warmed up they set off to wander, feed and rest in the shade. Then return for a top-up of warmth if they need it. Have a look at the photo gallery of this site for ideas. You have caught the torty bug now, and like most of us, won't settle for second best for our beasties! Very best wishes . David in York

Hi Kerry

Whilst I totally argee with David regarding time outside, Im a bit of a saddo in that I take Uvb readings every week and its already on the decline heading into the autumn.

I find that with UVB flourescents they need to be very close to the animal to ensure good exposure, Im talking 8 inches max from the top of the shell for the small 12 or 18 inch tubes. Also the uvb output declines along the length of the tube from the centre so the middle of the tube should be over the basking spot. Ive also found that after about 6 months of daily ise theyre pretty much done.

I really cant find fault with a good mvb heat/uvb bulb like the megaray or the T Rex active uv/heat bulb. I have ones still producing good uvb output nearly 2 years after installation.

Good Uvb exposure is critical as it allows the tortoise to formulate vitamin D3, thiscin turn allows the tortoose to utilise minerals like calcium.

If you need any help choosing a bulb, let me know. I have a few! :)

Thanks for all the advice, It is much appreciated

Good news! Just returned from visit to the vet and he said the same as Dave. Trevor is an odd shape probably due to lack of Uvb in the pet shop, He has no sign of infection, his shell is healthy, eyes are bright and as he nearly ran off the table, he guessed that he was active and alert.  Clean bill of health all roundjust odd shape which should improve over the years with lots of good quality lighting and diet.

I have decided to change his lamps though.  We were recommended the strip and separate heat lamp by the shop keeper but she also tried to sell us a viv and pellets so I should have known better really.  Its all so confusing as there is so much conflicting advice about tortoise care.

All I can say is Thankyou for this amazing site it has been a god send!!!

Kerry